February 2014 Vanuatu

We have arrived in paradise! Our long awaited house sit has begun on the very tropical, very humid and excruciatingly beautiful Vanuatu.

Vanuatu - previously New Hebrides Islands - is in an archipelago of 83 Islands situated east of Australia and north of New Zealand surrounded by the Pacific Ocean. Cyclones are experienced here in varying degrees with plenty of warning every few years from December to March. So we might be in for our first ever cyclone.

Cyclone casualties

The currency is the Vatu, and there are 3 official languages spoken here. English, French and Bislama which is a local pidgin language. Its a mixture of phonetic English woven in a loose French sentence structure spoken with 'local sound' producing some comical outcomes - e.g. ladies bras or bikini tops are called 'Basket blong titi"!

We applied for this sit way back in June last year. Malle and Ross were inundated with 100's of applicants from all over the world and rightly so for such a great place to come and experience. So it's no wonder we feel very lucky and happy that they whittled it down and choose us due to our varied and relevant experience, and because of our blog!
We will be taking great care of their fur daughter Shazzles who is a gorgeous Staffie girl. They rescued her in New Zealand and have given her a new and wonderful home here in Vanuatu.

Hot Dog

Scooby Doo is that you?

Shazzles has a few issues and also requires daily medication. She experienced ill treatment as a pup, but with our past experience and because we believe there is no such thing as a bad animal, only bad treatment of an animal, we are very happy and excited to be spending time caring for her and hope that we can help her with some of her trust issues too.

A calm and easy flight of just three and a bit hours and our feet have firmly landed in this vibrant exciting tropical paradise island. Let the adventure begin! Our first impressions are - 'Overwhelmed'!

Touching down and finding ourselves in the small welcoming airport, the first thing we notice is the heat. So hot you could cook jacket spuds, all is new and senses have been sent into overload. The drive through the town of Port Vila, bustling, busy and so foreign had our eyes on stalks trying to soak up all the newness and difference. It feels like being in a Gauguin painting. The Nivans, as the local people are know are beautiful, long and lean, with huge smiles.

Latest home

Latest squeeze and master of cuddles

Malle and Ross were at the airport to greet us and drive to our beachside cottage which will be home for the coming two months. They own several places here and are in the midst of building a new and vast waterfront home.

One of Ross and Malle's homes

The deck at our new home

We stopped off at the 'Supermarche Nambatu' to get a few supplies, an experience in itself. Huge huge fish of which I have never seen the like before, all colours shapes and sizes, I wouldn't have clue what to do with any of them. They look like they have escaped from Sydney's tropical aquarium. The fruits and veggies are the same, somehow turned super heros, pumped up and three times as big as anything we are used to finding in Coles or Woolies or Waitrose, again we struggle to recognise many of them.
Its hot hot hot, and the humidity covers us in a fine damp clammy dew, I'm grateful that I don't have frizzy hair. I am reminded of Cuba. But this time I know that we will acclimatise in a few days and not be puffing and huffing at the slightest exertion for too long. Already we have two essential items for our stay here.

New best friend 1

New best friend 2

There has been an outbreak of dengue fever here on the island. A virus caused by a mosquito bite from the Aedes mosquito which bites during the day time and causes fever and aches and pains in the joints, which is where it gets the name 'break-bone fever' It can be quite nasty, so we are being very careful with the old repellents!

The roads we drive on are pitted with huge holes, more like craters with a bit of road around them. The many dirt tracks kick up the dust as we manoeuvre the busy and chaotic traffic, there seem to be few rules of the road and its a melee of taxis and mini buses. These are also the local transport services to and from town, there are wonderful packed street stalls all along the road sides as we get closer to Ifira Point, big mommas, selling handmade woven baskets and bags, the brightest coloured printed silk scarfs, hanging limply in the still humid air.

The humidity is heavy,weighting down in dollops of steamy sweaty shoulder sagging damp. Like big woollen jumpers soaked in water, we feel like we're pulling ourselves around rather than moving free limbed and easily. Its very different and I feel quite tired by it. Still, I tell myself I will acclimatise.

We had a wonderful sunset for our first night at Port Vila. Our cottage is meters from the beach, we went for a walk to see what our immediate surroundings have to offer. We were far from disappointed!

What a beach and what a sunset. We came across a small group of local kids playing in the warm water, all laughing and jumping around. Shouting 'Hello!' and giggling at us in long trousers and taking photographs. It was a real treat to see them having so much fun.

Next day we're up early, the heat and humidity is crazy even at 7am. We take a shower and as soon as I'm out, I want to get back into it! We smother ourselves in repellant and head off to meet Mallee and Ross and get the low down on Shazzles and our other responsibilities. We will be taking care of their  properties and managing the staff who help them run things here. Its a lot to take in but we have notebooks at hand and make sure we cover everything from cyclone shutters to medication for Miss Shazz. 

When we're done they take us into town so we can get familiar with where things are. We've no transport of our own here and will be using the local buses. These turn out to be hundreds of minivans which you hail like a cab and squeeze in alongside the locals to get wherever your off too. It's fun and chaotic. They're privately owned and many are decorated and painted with all sorts of colours and fabrics, some have chest thumping bass music blaring out of them as they fly by dodging the huge craters in the roads. 

Our Favourite. The Tiger Bus

Spot the tiger tail!

In 2006 Vanuatu entered into a 66 million dollar agreement with the US government millennium challenge corporation for road reconstruction. The roads are pretty bad now but before the agreement the trips to market for the locals were bone shaking, back aching and often the produce they carried to sell at the market would be damaged and no use to anyone. The agreement has also meant the minibus drivers have greatly increased in numbers and made travel around the island much much easier quicker and cheaper too.

'The road of life 'as the locals call it has created new income and better access to health and education. For every tree cleared to widen the roads a new one was planted, so all round a huge help and improvement for the Nivan people and visitors too.

We spend all afternoon exploring and visit the flower markets and The 'Mommas' markets and the fresh fruit and veggie markets which all neighbour each other in the centre of town. We recognise a thing or two so buy a few familiars, tomatoes etc and also a few new delights like peanuts still on the roots, coconuts that are deftly macheted open by a young girl with a colourful stall, and some unfamiliar greens that we think might be watercress?

Live crabs tied up in string

Close relatives!

The markets are wonderful and so foreign. So bustling and full of colour. Its a real hub of the town. The produce is everywhere in sacks, boxes and beautiful hand woven palm leaf baskets. There are chickens in a hand built wooden crates, to an outsider it might seem chaotic but it runs like clockwork. Its great!

chicken in a basket anyone?

I adore these palm leaf baskets

This is what peanuts look like

We have had some rain fall and Miss Shazzles is as happy about it as we are, the air has cleared a little and its not so humid that we are all flopping all over the place. We had a lovely long walk and then a rest on the shady deck, after a huge tongue slapping bowl of water. (That's Shazzles not us!)

For the most part we are finding Shazzles a very quiet and timid young lady. She likes company and prefers to be at our feet snoozing than anywhere else, but don't let that fool ya! She is a brilliant guard dog too. She sleeps outside at night in a little wooden house and makes sure everything is safe and secure. 

Vanuatu has a very low crime rate and is very safe, however there is petty crime here and as a lot of homes built by people who came for a holiday and wanted to stay are second homes and therefore empty for long periods, most have guards &/or dogs to deter any nosey parkers. I'd lay money Shazzles is one of the best.

The weather is cooler and cloudy, great to take Shazzles out for a long walk and further exploration. Jason is once more, official photographer and I love seeing the images he captures of the places we walk together, as so often I didn't see what he saw.

The beach at Ifira Point is a great playground for a wanna-be Attenborough such as myself, there are so many beautiful shells and coral, all washed up on the beach. If you look closer anywhere, you can see its teaming with life. There are hermit crabs all about, all in tiny shells, mooching around.

Herman the big hermit

At the waters edge there are starfish of all shapes and sizes. Small quick fish darting about, tiny tiny quick as lightening crabs, that Shazzle's loves to try and catch almost pulling my arm from its socket such is her strength. Palm trees and banana palms line the edges of the beach. The waters are turquoise and crystal clear. We have a great time wandering, and Shazzles flops out in the shade for a big sleep.

The hermit crabs are garnering rather a lot of my attention. I'm fascinated. Stand still for just a moment and the scrub or tree roots start to move. I am imagining them as little tenants,with hard sell estate agent starfish who sell them the finest shell in which to stay and set up home for a while 'All mod cons and what a view, Just on the market and not too be missed!". I come back and google hermit crabs and to my astonishment I discover they can live up to 32 years! Imagine how big that final shell is going to be! May as well put a crab downpayment on a bungalow. 

Wandering around we come across a man with and Iguana on his head, as you do in these parts, it's De riguer darling!  

We have a chat and he explains the Iguana is called Alex, & he likes to eat flower petals, & definitely not insects. Such a developed palette for fine dining in one so reptile. I'm twitchy about having my picture taken with him because I am reminded of the monkeys I saw in Cuba who are dressed up and dance to hip hop or the skinny dogs of Barcelona who perform tricks in dirty coca-cola T shirts. But Alex has no leash on his neck and he isn't clipped in any way, and no one is asking for money,...... Here are the images and a small film of Alex, the Iguana. 

Iguana and woman

Iguana and Man

Jason's finest Alex impersonation

We posted Alex up on our Instagram accounts and his big debut moment has been shown by my Sister's mother-in-law to her year 9 class, whilst learning about Dinosaurs. In some small way our little connection with Alex has maybe sparked Vanuatu or Iguanas in the minds of little ones somewhere in the heart of Berkshire UK. 

The rain has come. We were warned by Ross and Mallee via email and by Dan an Aussie guy who is our neighbour here and lives between Vanuatu and Sydney, and boy has it arrived. I LOVE IT! Full steam ahead and full throttle rain. It shouts down onto our tin roof and goes from 1st gear to 5th in a nano second. Its biblical. The roof sings loud to its downpour, but its not cold, not at all, and just when you think the noise of it has reached it peak, its ups its game and another gear is found waiting for watery acceleration.

It rains for 3 solid days. The novelty has worn a little thin but still its impressive! No wonder everywhere is so lush and green.

Ever so slightly worrying we find this whilst we google weather forecasts. The only thing that gives me the willies is the word Tsunami. We have a good read through everything and decide there is very little to actually cause concern and non of the locals seem to be worrying, so buckle up lets see how it pans out.

Cyclone Lusi is coming our way and so things might get a bit more exciting weather wise. Luckily we have this very high tech anti cyclone equipment at hand. 

Lusi comes and goes in about 28 hours, but this time it seems we are spared the full effect of her weatherly powers. We apparently have the 'tail end' and she causes havoc elsewhere. Sadly the island is not without casualties and I read in the local paper of the death of three women and two children in one of the more remote villages. The local school loses its main building under the might of a fallen pine tree and there are landslides and people still missing. 

Its a timely reminder that we are somewhere very different to where we call home and that we are fortunate to have not experienced such tremendous weather at close hand.

Though Lusi has passed through, the rain decides to outstay its welcome. It's relentless, we have to head into town for supplies and having no transport makes this all the more of challenge in this weather. Didn't really think to pack raincoats and wellies, so we brave the wall of rain in flip flops and shorts and manage to get a minibus to take pity on us.

The roads are full of huge belts of water and it's tough going for the minivan so we take refuge at the nearest place which happens to be The War Horse Saloon. 

Yee Ha!

Whilst there we met this little fella who was also sheltering from the rain. Cute as a button and sleepy as, well a sleepy thing, His name is Buddy.

AWWWWWWW

Buddy Boy

We have to visit immigration today. As a visitor you stay in Vanuatu for only 30 days, then you must fill out some forms, hand over some cash and you are granted an extension. Dead simple.

It was too. The building was very basic and the office piled high with bundles and bundles of paperwork with seemingly no system in place. We literally turned up, gave the money to the guy behind the desk and the passports were stamped! 

The rain had stopped and so we took full advantage and went exploring around town, back at the Momma's Markets it was bustling.

big shoes to fill that little one

Stella is making the hula skirts that the 'Momma's' sell to the tourists at the stalls by the port when the huge cruise ships come into Efate for the day. She is making them by looping lengths of raffia twine over one long length which she holds in place with her big toe. She has the cutest little assistant.

The flower markets are wonderful. Huge bunches of ginger, birds of paradise and all manner of tropical flora all for a few dollars. Its a wonderful site, bursting with colour especially when the lovely sun comes to have a look too.

We head down to the quay next to the markets and check out prices for water taxis and island trips. The guys have 'banana boats' which they use to ferry the tourists about. On a cruise ship day prices go up, considerably.
One of the many things we love about house sitting is that we feel we get to 'plug in' to a place in a different way to a visiting tourist. Obviously we are here longer, we mix with the local folks and neighbours of our hosts where ever we are, so we have a wealth of local knowledge to draw on. We believe this gives us a very different experience to those popping in to stay at hotel for fortnight or coming off the cruise ships for a day.

Just a bit of shopping for this guy

Jason negotiating 

For instance, Priscilla, one of the young girls from the village next to where we are staying told us where to go to try local home cooked food, The authentic Vanuatian fare. It's nestled at the back of the markets in a huge open air makeshift ramshackle cook out. We wandered through and were daunted at the dishes on offer. Being unable to fathom what most of it consisted of I admit I was beginning to chicken out. My appetite for adventure and authenticity seeping away quite quickly. The women sit with the dishes they have prepared on long wooden tables, the food served on banana leaves, using a palm woven fan, they waft away the flies that are unavoidable here in the heat and humidity. 

We identified fried fish of some sort and I think there may have been a chicken dish too, but there wasn't anything I was brave enough to sample, not this time around anyhow. So, feeling a bit like a couple of western wusses we shuffled past and out of the market. 

We decided to make a half way step and try the markets another day. We stumbled upon a Vanuatian kitchen right on the water, full of locals and their kids all having lunch. We sampled the spiciest beef curry and freshly made samaosa. Rosti with pickled chillies and chilli vinegar which the lady told us to pour over our sticky white rice. It was delicious and very very hot! Left me with a running nose and after burning lips. Yum

Hoping to avoid this after the curries!

The beach beside our cottage is fantastic. It's busy and beautiful. People out fishing with a huge net, the dug-out canoes coming in and out, the banana boats ferrying people to and from work, the school run takes on new meaning here. Boats bundled high with kids skip across to the neighbouring island, Ifira, and the school there. We know when school's finished for the day because the kids sing hymns as they get on board the boat home. The sound of their tinkling voices carries over the water. It's really beautiful. 

Favourite reading spot

School run

Off to distant shores ladies?

We came across these little ladies on our way home - Sita and Nima and their dog, who didn't have a name. We chatted away with them, each of us trying to understand the other. Smiles and dog pats were the universal language...

Here are a few of the dugout canoes which, as the name suggests, are carved out from one tree trunk. Its great to watch  the guys sail these things, using only one paddle they deftly navigate the waves and water. I'd love to have a go...

Adorable Sita.

WE'VE BEEN ROBBED! 

We hadn't realised that anyone had been in the cottage until Jason went to pay for something & an empty wallet gaped open mouthed back at him. Wearing our detective hats and working back over the morning and previous day we have deduced that it must have been when we both took Shazzy for her morning walk. No one would get into the garden, let alone the cottage and survive to tell the tale with Miss Shazzles on patrol. It's a bit of a mystery as the doors and windows were all locked, and it isn't until we finally find the fly screen from the bedroom window hidden under our bed that we work how they got in. It's a bit of a shock and slighty unnerving to know someone has been in here and that it's not as secure here as we'd thought. Still we won't be put off. We're in a different environment, so different rules I guess. We try to remain pragmatic and will be much more vigilant in future. 

There are huge coconut trees in the garden and paw paw and avocado too. It's a veritable banquet! 

Tom, the excellent gardener is in today - and he suggests that we try some fresh Coconut water... 

He's made some deep cuts into the trunk which allow him to scale the tree in seconds! It's impressive stuff for us city folks, and he deftly twists off the coconuts before swiftly scooting back down the tree trunk and whacking away the husk with his machete. 

I find it hard to watch him. With one hand he turns the coconut quickly and all the while he is hacking at it with his other hand, his huge machete is so sharp! I can't help but grimace - he notices - and when he's finished he holds up both his hands and shows us all his fingers, & with a huge smile on his face he say's 'Ten'! I can't help but burst out laughing. Funny as well as brave is our Tom.

Master coconut chopper

Ekkkk watch out Tom! 

Jason getting to grips with his coconut

Its a thumbs up from Tom.

Crazy coconut face

Coconut head

Manu is a neighbour's gardener and he brings us some delicious avocados and paws paws from the trees next door. Thanks Manu! Chilli con carne for tea!

Guacamole anyone?

We take Shazzles out each morning for a long walk, wander down to Ross and Malle's other house which is still being built and check everything is in order and secure before chasing crabs on the beach and having a splash about in the ocean.

Dan, the neighbour, has two adorable sibling little Fox Terrier crossers. Rosie and Wally who are great friends of Shazzie and we meet them each morning for a play date. Rosie is the most excellent of swimming dogs, Olympic standard, so much so that we have renamed her Esther Williams!

Rosie roo

Wally Jumper

Together we have developed a game they never tire of. We throw a stick right out into the water, they both hurl themselves into the sea with great speed and enthusiasm, and race to collect the stick. Rosie's so quick she never fails to get hold of it first. Wally however always ends up with the stick as they tussle and fight for it on the shore line, then we start all over again!

Shazzles is a little nervous of the water but we are encouraging her little by little to get a bit deeper. It's all great fun and you can't deny these dogs have the best life here on Vanuatu. So much freedom and fun. Shazzles, Rosie and Wally love to chase the wild pigs and chickens which roam about the place.

Heres the momma and her pigglings

It's hilarious watching them pelt at full speed towards the oinkers, only to completely back off when the huge pigs hackles rise, they turn, square up and they let out a gutteral grunt.  Pigs - 1 Dogs - 0.

Both of these young pups have a birthday today! Coincidently Shazzles and Jason share the same day. One of them is turning 44 and looking at the photos you would be forgiven for thinking Miss Shazzles was clocking up the years!

We've hired a car for the day and hope to further explore the Island! There is only the one road which  circumnavigates the Island and so it doesn't really matter which way you head off.

Birthday boy  

Very smooth roads

It's not long into the drive before we run out of tarmac and settle into the bone shaking rattle of the car and all the dust it kicks up of the dirt roads. The landscape is unbelievable. We are starting to feel like we are the only people here in a land that time forgot. Everywhere we look there are Banana and Paw paw trees, bent double with fruit. Wild vines and weeds have covered huge parts of the tropical forests, so that it resembles a huge swamp monster. There are coconut plantations, kilometres of uniform tall trees all with foot holds cut into them. The birthday boy wants to take some photographs and we make regular stops along the road side and discover some interesting places.

We come across this wooden shack which is cobbled together in a charming fashion from old slats, string and palm leafs. It's a real work of art. An old guy regales tales of his experiences as an islander here in Vanuatu during the occupation of the American forces. He has a strange collection of items, ranging from old munition shells and American naval hats and a large amount of empty Coca Cola bottles which you can buy for $5 a pop! 

This is the Second World War Museum!

A few more kilometres along the road and we find this place; another road side shack with Giant Clam shells and a painted sign saying that these shells have been put there for the enjoyment of looking at and that they are not for sale.

We see some locals wandering along the side of the dirt roads, they all smile and wave and when we stop to have a closer look here and there they are so friendly and curious about who we are and where we come from. At the side of the road there are a group of young guys with a fire going. They're cooking fish that they've pulled out of a small adjacent creek, and they pick the white flesh straight from the embers of the fire. They're almost in rags and the further we travel the more primitively the people seem to be living. It's so interesting but I am aware of being uncomfortably voyueristic, trying to balance out curiosity & intrusion.

We came across this place; a small clearing in an otherwise over grown area of palm trees and vines. With a small hand made sign that said 'store'. We called out but no one was about so we took a few pictures and had a nose around.

The buildings were beautifully made, hand built with hand woven roofing made from palm leaves that are woven together with great skill. Everywhere so tidy and neat.

It turns out it was a Kava bar... More on that later....

Look at the fabulous cane woven windows and intricate patterns of the walls, all made from stickes & coconut palm leaves. Incredible! I am so impressed by the artistry and dexterity of the work. I would love to learn how to do it or simply be an observer of the women at work.

We continued with our exploring and drove further along the one road that takes you around the Island, we soon saw signs for a watering hole that we had been told of and decided to stop and take a dip.

The water hole IS actually this colour, bright turquoise and it wasn't too sunny this day, it looks so tropical, and like all the beaches we have been to the water is crystal clear so that you can see all the fish and underwater activity without even needing goggles or a mask. We watched as a group of children had huge fun with a rope swing, each time taking it higher and higher up the tree, before plunging into the water. I love that this place is not concerned with health and safety everywhere and that children get to take risks and play unsupervised.

We stopped at this place for a bite to eat, Coco beach, right on the water and only us dining today, I felt like we were in a Bond movie. This exotic location all to ourselves, with our private island dining!

We get home and take this little lady for a long sunset walk, its lovely and warm and we all stop on the poontoon to watch the sun come down.
What a fabulous one it was too. Jason's wonderful photograph reminded me of the Aboriginal flag.

The hire car's returned now & there isn't too much to do when you have no wheels in Vanuatu so we're taking full advantage of all the time to hang out with Shazzie. We're trying to encourage her to get in the water with Wally and Rosie her doggie mates. It's tough as she really isn't too keen but slowly slowly she is getting a little more used to it and actually starting to go in the water on her own. She's a long way from swimming but she's staying in the water as long as her feet reach the bottom. Hurrah for Shazzie!!!!

The rest of the time we are busying ourselves with reading, writing the blog, taking photographs, painting and drawing. It's such a luxury to have so much time to enjoy these simple pursuits that we get so much out of.

My latest book, quite apt.

We have been very interested and impressed with all the 'Kustom' Arts and Crafts in Vanuatu. From sand drawings, to the floor matting, the carvings and huge masks. I am busting a gut to get my creative groove on. So i've decided to have a go at making some 'Kustom Art' of my own. I took a big bag and headed to the beach for inspiration. Sadly there is rather a lot of rubbish thrown up on to the beaches here. In just under an hour or so I collected all this stuff! It's going to be a busy afternoon playing with all my beach treasure. Like I said before, there isn't too much to do here without wheels but I'm not complaining, I'm in heaven to have all the time to play and make some art.

After several hours sifting through my beach booty and playing around with the 'noses' and 'eyes' -broom hair and old flip flops for mouths. Heres a few that I really liked; I think i'll make some postcards from them to send back to friends in the UK as a memento of our Vanuatu adventure. I really like them.

Making 'Kustom' Faces'

Spot the Nike thong?

Peanut stalk beard?

Elephant head

Well today was very interesting! Jason and I took Shazzles for a walk along the beach and, realising I didn't have my camera, we headed back. As we opened the gate to our cottage there was a leg sticking out of the bedroom window! The robber was back!! It was a real shock and all happened very quickly but after a short scuffle and a lot of shouting he managed to get away, with us giving chase, we watched as he fled through a gate and over a neighbouring garden. Still, we had managed to get a good look at him and as soon as we returned to the cottage we made a written description and I drew a picture of what he was wearing, very useful we were told as most local people have very few clothes. The neighbours helped us call the local police and we set about talking with the rest of the neighbours, handing out a drawing of his outfit and a detailed description. He'd managed to empty Jason's wallet again, but thankfully no passports or laptops were missing. We were both furious and realised he must have been keeping a watch on us as he'd waited until we were both out with Shazzie. We'd only been a matter of minutes this time though...
The locksmiths have now been called and Jason has fitted a hasp & padlock to a cupboard as we've been unable to procure a safe. We'll wait to see what happens with the description that's being circulated amongst our neighbours.

Jason has become very interested in the local Bislama language, which as I mentioned earlier is a pidgin tongue fused together from French, English and local chat. It's become a source of great interest & Jason's been 'collecting' signs and such and he has casually started dropping the odd 'blong' or 'long' into his own everyday sentences.

There was a very very low tide this morning. You can literally walk out on the reef now to the drop off in ankle deep water and see all the new coral growing. We popped on our reef shoes and headed out for a pootle. & It was busy! Lots of local ladies, with buckets, machete knives and plastic bags, foraging for seafood. We introduced ourselves to a group of ladies from the local village and asked if they would explain what they were looking for. It was really interesting, what they were able to glean from among the rocks, I'm hooked! As a child I was no stranger to a rock pool and loved creatures of all types. I want to have a go at foraging for clams and shellfish too, but after seeing some of the things the ladies were collecting and going to eat, I thought I might just stick to clams...

These have green tongue like creatures in them

Big clams!

Some slug like thing

Sea Urchins

The ladies told us that they cut the tops off the sea urchins, pour coconut milk into them and bake them on the fire. The other shellfish, they eat in coconut milk with rice and then clean up the shells and sell them at the markets to the tourists. They showed me how to find urchins, and how to sift the sand at the waters edge to find tiny white clams. So with this expert knowledge and inspired by their buckets full of wonder, I set off to get started.

Very pleased with giant mussel type shell

Although I thoroughly enjoyed my afternoon forage, my enthusiasm and several hours sifting yielded little, a paltry two small clams and a sand dollar! probably best to leave it to the experts!

Robber news! The thief, or The Steely Man as they say in Bislama has been caught!

Tanna Tom, as our neighbour is known, came and told us that he had a culprit and wanted us to identify him. I was nervous about this and still shaken from the incident of him coming out of our bedroom, but Tom reassured us and bought the thief to us so we could identify him. Jason and I recognised him immediately, we had no doubt he was the right (stealy) man.
I said to him. "You were in our house on Saturday and you stole our money" He hung his head and said that it wasn't him.  Calmly, I said 'You are a liar, and a thief, please just tell the truth', and he said it was him. I couldn't believe it. Then Tom said, "Right, now WE will deal with him"  We had been told that they put thieves in what they call The Ring which is basically a circle of village men. With the thief in the middle, each one takes a turn to beat him.
We thanked Tom - and said that if we had any say in the matter, we were very strongly against this punishment, traditional or not. That we didn't agree with a beating, and we'd prefer to call the police and have him dealt with legally. After some back and forth this was agreed to. Along with Tom we made a trip to the local police station, a few statements later, the CID (all in flip flops of course) came back with us and arrested Jack, as we now know him to be called.

Anyhow to cut a very long story short, he will be in court on the 17th of April. Jack has since been back here at the house, only this time to return a small amount of the money he stole and to apologise to us both for his theft. I couldn't believe it! Apparently, as we learned later, if a thief's caught and returns what he's stolen, the courts will be more lenient with their sentencing. Vanuatu continues to surprise and amaze us both.


Sammy is a little guy from the neighbouring village. He is ridiculously beautiful, cute and cheeky. He comes to see us and show off his counting skills. Jason took these wonderful images off him when he came by to pick some paw paw that are growing here in the garden.

Just beautiful

I spy.

We have been invited by our neighbour Dan to go deep sea fishing for Tuna, Sailfish, Wahoo and Mahi Mahi. Its an early start and the sun is already burning down, huge swathes of blue sky and crystal clear waters. How fortunate we are to be here in Vanuatu! One of the many great benefits to house sitting are the varied and unexpected invites we receive from the folks we get to know along the way. Today is glorious, we both pinch ourselves as we arrive to board the boat. She's a beauty!

The Cooloola

Captain Dan!

Dan asks us to get up top and watch out for birds on the water or for leaping fish. I am amazed to see my first ever flying fish! I mean really flying, for tens of meters on end, close to the waters' surface and with their wing-fins spread and buzzing, proper flying! We spot a small group leaping out of the water, and in hot pursuit is a huge sail fish! Im agog and amazed. Dan finds our wide eyed enthusiasm funny, it's an everyday occurrence for Sailor Dan!

FISH!!!!!!!!!!

There is a huge amount of expensive equipment involved in deep sea fishing and Charlie makes sure everything is ship shape and Bristol fashion. Here he is getting the lures ready. There're pretty fabulous bright coloured and sparkly numbers, i'd quite like one for a necklace, until Dan tell me they are about $70 each!

Charlie lining up his lures.

Gratuitous hair shot!

Team Fish

We spend all day on the water. It's so calm and so clear that when we stop we can actually see all the fish in the water. Dan sailed us out to Pango, around the point & up past breakers resort. Then on to Shark Bay before doubling back.

Jason fish spotting up top

I was surprised at how exciting it was when Johnny or Tony got a bite. Battling with the huge fish, frantic reeling, and stern concentration but alas no fish were landed. I throughly enjoyed the whole day

Johnny Hollywood hasn't just got a very cool name!

The big blue

We headed back, a little pink from the sun, tired from the effort and exhilarated from the excitement. I'm sure these two rookie ship hands will sleep well tonight!

We are also helping Malle and Ross with the management of their other rental properties and the staff who work in them. Whilst they are away we will have several guests who are renting their homes for holidays. We will be responsible for meeting a greeting them, and attending to any hiccups that may occur or help they may need whilst here in Vanuatu.

Today there has been a problem with the hot water at Sea Breeze and Jason has gone off,  toolbox in hand, to fix it in time for holiday makers showers this evening. So I am here playing with Miss Shazzie and Wally who has popped in for a play day.

Shazzie, Wally and I, have decided to bake a cake as we have been invited for Easter Lunch at a neighbours house, and want to take a treat along. I realise we are without scales for measuring ingredients, but I need not worry. Jason arrives back having fixed the boiler and water issues and is straight into resolving my measuring problem. This is his very Vanuatu invention!

The 'Blong' Scales

Comical and ingenious. An upright room fan, two Vanuatu plant holders, a bamboo cane, my legend of a husband's brain and blow me over, if he hasn't just gone and made a pair of working scales! Thanks problem solving Jason.

Shazzie was a great helper, sitting drooling and watching every spoonful of cake mixture being put into the baking tins. Her deserved reward? To lick the bowl clean!  Woof Woof!

bus stop house sitters

We have been to explore the local Cultural Centre and Museum of Vanuatu. It looks rather impressive from outside. There are some very interesting artefacts to be seen, and customs to read about.

Sadly, on the whole it's a bit run down and tatty, which is disappointing for a place so full of wonderful culture and with such a vibrant history. There were many tribal masks and some excellent examples of the ingenuity and skill of the Ni Van people. I have been enthralled by the baskets, mats and bags the ladies and Mommas make since we arrived in Vanuatu. The weaving and making is beautiful and enduring. I am so inspired to have a try myself. The leaves of Pandanus Palm are put through a time consuming process lasting around two weeks before a warp or weft is even thought about. 

The work produced is used in everyday life, taking goods to the markets, making roofing for huts in the villages, matting for the home, decoration for ceremonial purposes or for catching fish and crabs in cleverly thought through traps and nets. All from the Pandanus!

Spot the house sitters?

Roi Mata was a famous and revered chief of around 400 years ago. Oral tradition records reveal a gruesome end to his long reign as Chief.  His grave is on Eretoka or 'Hat' Island as its also known when excavated, revealed a two level burial chamber. The lower level, contained the remains of Roi Mata, his 'Clever' or magic man, his 'Atavi' or assistant with his wife, and Roi Mata's youngest bride. They were all buried alive alongside his corpse. A 100 day ceremony followed his death and burial. On the 100th day the earth on top of the lower level was compacted with furious dance and celebration as clan members danced over the grave. The second level was then added. Along with a number of Chiefs and their wives up to 50 clan members drank strong 'Kava' known for its muscle relaxing and soporific qualities before being buried alive! Talk about a send off.

The big man

The unfortunate clan 

and assistants

Inspired by the wonderful weaving and inventiveness of the baskets, bags and mats we've been seeing all over Vanuatu, I have decided to try making a hat. After some google time, and reading over and over tricky and confusing instructions, I settle on a palm leaf hat. Once the skill and expertise has been mastered the finished hats look wonderful. I'm hoping I can get somewhere close to the one shown here.

Tom the gardener very kindly gets me a huge palm leaf, and with his trusty machete hacks it into manageable sizes. First step is to split the palm in two halves.

Then you make a couple of 'nicks' where the two ends of your palm strip overlap and lash them together with a very thin section of a leaf to hold the circle in place, this should be the same size as your head of course!

Next, set about weaving the brim, which after a bit of practice and a few attempts becomes quite easy and very satisfying when it comes together nicely!

I did quite a lot of googling to try and find some clear instruction for weaving the body of the hat. I struggled to find anything that helped and nothing with illustrations, so after many attempts, and undoing my mistakes I made it up as I went along.

Heres how the first one turned out!  I was pretty much hooked, and set about a second attempt straight away.

Wanna get ahead? Get a hat!

Shazzie seemed to like my first attempt.

Attempt number 2. A tad Buffalo Girl. I like it.

Attempt number 3. Work in progress.

Weaving the top is very tricky but by holding the upright leaves in place with a hair band i'm hoping it will make it a little easier.

Tidy brim!

Each leaf is taken round and over 8 consecutive leaves and then woven under the ninth, in theory a breeze, but in practice very confusing and tricky to keep all the leaves in place. YouTube has some wonderful examples of time honoured pros making it look so effortless and quick, heres one of my fave links.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Jym3zIPass
Still I will persevere and add any new hats that come into creation. I'm really very hooked and feel a new calling as a weaver of palm fronds!
Jesly explains that the coconut tree is a life force on the Island. Providing, food, milk, husks to make rope, the leaves which are used in many woven products and for animal feed too. It seems nothing goes to waste here and I really love that about the place.

Jason's portrait of Tom in his very old Palm hat.

We have been very fortunate to meet many of the neighbours who live close to Ross and Malle, and they have been very generous in inviting us in to their inner circles. I feel we have made some new friends here on the Island and we will definitely be coming back we hope! Dan who has been a real star, invited for a lunch date at The Beach House. WOW. Shazzie came along of course and had a big snooze under a shady palm.

Table with a view? No problem.

We have met some wonderful people here in Vanuatu and Mary is one of the best. Not only beautiful on the outside but on the inside too, and very funny. We have really enjoyed getting to know her.

The lovely Mary, and Me

Here he is, Dan The Marlborough Man, or Lieutenant Dan as we like to call him. Dog Daddy to Wally and Rose the wonder dogs and playmates of Miss Shazzie.

Rose between two thorns!

Strike a pose.

Jason took the opportunity to wander off and take some rather arresting images, once again I love his eye for detail. The Pandanus never looked so wonderful!

This huge Banyan is all knots and creepers, roots and twisted branch, reminiscent of Lord Of The Rings or other fantasy film sets. Difficult to get a true sense and size of the scale of it from a photograph but my talented photographer husband manages wonderfully.

Huge Banyan Tree

Another perfect day ends in Paradise with a walk for Shazzie, a beautiful sunset and a cool breeze.

We get up bright and early and on our walk along the beach with Shazzie we come across an arresting and slightly challenging sight. Four men are skinning a huge black dead cow by the waters' edge. As animal lovers it's very upsetting to see at such close hand, and we decide to take a different route. However I also believe that as a meat eater, it's important to see what actually happens and where our food comes from. The cattle and pigs are raised so freely and happily here, and its one of the reasons the beef is some of the every best in the world. The cow was being prepared to take across to Ifira Island for a funeral feast. The whole skin and innards are discarded in the water at the very edge and weighted down with rocks so that the fish will eat it all. I think its great that none of the Cow will be left to waste. Even the fish benefit!

We have a lovely day planned with Jesly, one of the gardeners who has become a friend, and who works in a neighbouring house has offered to take us around the small island and coves in his banana boat. He will also take us across to Ifira too to see the village. He's keen to show us real Vanuatu and introduce us to some of his neighbours and friends. I'm very excited and a little nervous as I feel it may be too nosey or voyeuristic, but he assures us to the contrary, he can't wait to show off his village and tells me we are very welcome.

There are quite a few of these miniature islands with small trees flourishing on them. I think they look a bit like clumps of broccoli sprouting up from the Ocean.

All around the coves there are kids playing and fishing and bathing in the clear warm waters. They all wave and shout 'Hello!' to us as we slowly pass by in the boat.

Around the far end of the Marina is this old wreck, Jesly makes a great guide and tells us these broke free in a cyclone, and have been abandoned by the owners, but he suspects they were left un anchored so that the Insurance money could be claimed.

This is the wonderful view we are treated too: Ifira island in all its glory.

Ifira

After landing the boat and climbing up the dirt track into the village  the first stop we make is the church. There are many churches on Vanuatu, wherever you go they crop up. Denominations are many too and range from Jehovah Kingdom Halls to Presbyterian churches. They're all active and at the heart of the communities.

The old church

The new church hall still under construction

The colourful graveyard

Remember we saw a cow being prepared for the funeral? Jesly explains that it was a respected chief who'd died, and proudly showed us his grave. We asked if we might take a few pictures and he said that the chief would be pleased to know he was still of interest!

Everyone is so friendly

The houses are all very different ranging from solid brick and mortar to tin and wooden shacks, it's all very tidy, ordered, and well tended too, even the bare paths are swept with swirling patterns made in the dirt. It's a beautiful Island and the local villagers made us very welcome, they encouraged us to look around and to come back whenever we wished. It was a lovely afternoon and Jesly was such a great guide.

This is Walter, and he came out of his house to say 'Hello!' and welcome us to the village, he was so smiley. I noticed his T-shirt then... I was born in a small town in the UK, called Tamworth. I was amazed to see it on his shirt, even if his was the Aussie country-music-capital-city of Tamworth!

More shots of the beautiful church and the stark cool interior.It was lovely to watch Jesly in the Church, he removed his cap, sat in one of the pews and looked very happy as he talked about the church. Jesly told us this was one of the best churches in Vanuatu. Because of it's high position, it allows the sea breeze to flow through the slatted windows and keep everyone nice and cool when they are singing for long periods.

Even the Graffiti on Ifira is religious

Banana Boats and Boys

A very relaxed Jason

After a pleasant afternoon on the Island we are headed back to see Shazzie and take her out for another evening's swimming attempt. 

Our time on Vanuatu draws to a close. Ross and Malle have returned from their travels. It was delightful to see Shazzie so happy and full of beans when her Mom and Dad came to collect her! Their gain is our loss and the cottage feels very empty without the young gal here snoozing at my feet.Malle and Ross have asked us to come back and so we will return for another few months with Shazzie next March. We will really miss her and Little Wally and Rosie too!

Wally, Rosie and Jason

Ahhhh Big Gal!

Its been a fabulous, interesting and beautiful stay, but Sydney beacons and our next furry playmate Benny the beagle is waiting for us to come and take care of him, so with bags packed and flights awaiting its time to say goodbye Vanuatu,thanks for having us.  Hello Australia, nice to see you again!

Here's what Malle and Ross had to stay about our stay. Thanks Guys, bought a tear to my eye!